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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lundgren:
I do recommend the BTC, even for 6psi. At 6psi you might be at 2 clicks or so however.
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Was there more to that Lund?
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1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC w/hand ported plenum, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to .005i/.006e, MSD BTM, B&M CommandFlo regulator(working it out), stock intake w/resinator cut off at fenderwell for "cool air", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, Neuspeed springs(sux!), Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar, ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, Yokohama AVS 205/50/15's, Metal Master brake pads(KVR Carbon Fibre pads sitting on work bench) ,B&M fuel pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location...
YLW 00' ITR #00-1011 with AEM CAI and 143db triple air horns
Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...
Get paid to surf the Web!!! http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=TUD-039
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cpa: 4th gear at 3000rpms is just an easy place to set up the following conditions to test for a propensity to detonate:
1) RPM's near 4000 - aka The danger zone
2) Boosting
3) Throttle NOT at WOT
4) ECU still in closed loop
When starting at 3000rpms in 4th gear, if you SLOWLY go to WOT, until the throttle is open enough to put the ECU into open loop, you get detonation.
From the same starting point, if you immediately floor it, you go right into open loop and don't get much (if any) detonation.
On a dyno run, you'd go right to WOT, so you wouldn't have the detonation problems. Also, the load on the engine is smaller on a dyno than on a road.
Greg
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Stupid question, but why does a pull in a higher gear from lower RPM induce detonation more easily? In theory, would you then have to set the BTC at a higher retard per lb. of boost on a fourth gear dyno pull starting from say 2,000 RPM, as compared to normal driving/shifting conditions?
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After driving more, it does smooth things out under 2K rpm.
I guess it just never bothered me the way it drove before.
Greg
